Shaping Your Outdoors. Surpassing Expectations.
Late-winter structural pruning of roses to remove old canes, shape the plant, and drive vigorous spring growth and blooms.
Roses reward proper late-winter pruning with stronger stems, better blooms, and fewer disease problems, and in the maritime Northwest that timing is key. We typically prune around late February, when the worst frost has passed but before growth surges, cutting to outward-facing buds to open the center for airflow. Good air circulation is critical here because our damp climate encourages black spot and powdery mildew on roses. We remove dead, thin, and crossing canes, tailor the approach to the rose type such as hybrid teas, shrub, or climbing roses, and always make clean angled cuts to shed water and prevent cane rot.
Stimulates strong new canes and abundant summer blooms; Opens the plant's center to reduce black spot and mildew in wet PNW springs; Removes dead, diseased, and weak wood that harbors pests; Shapes and controls size for beds, borders, and arbors; Produces clean angled cuts that resist cane dieback
1) Prune in late winter as growth is about to begin; 2) Remove dead, thin, and crossing canes to the base; 3) Cut remaining canes to outward-facing buds to open the center; 4) Tailor cuts to the rose type such as hybrid tea, shrub, or climber; 5) Seal or clean up debris and mulch to reduce overwintering disease
Number and type of roses such as hybrid tea, shrub, or climbing; Size and thorniness affecting labor; Degree of neglect and deadwood present; Trellis or arbor work for climbers; Debris disposal
In Western Washington, prune roses in late winter (often around late February) after hard frosts pass but before new growth pushes, traditionally timed near Presidents' Day.